Friday, October 23, 2009

Champ Camp

Thank you to anyone who contributed to this year's youth leadership camp. It may be the best place your money has ever gone. It was a great success with double the campers and programs as last year, as well as a three-day senegalese counselor training.
This year's schedule included: tree nurseries, tree grafting, neem lotion, business classes, food security, plays, goal-defining, arts and crafts, awesome field games--
hiking up to the waterfall source (the group pictured below MAY have completed the hike in record time, led by the lady in blue...)
soccer,
olympic games (we lost the spoons for the egg-spoon race and joked they had to carry them on their heads. We should have known this isn't a joke in Senegal. Three people could!)

some of the best kids in Senegal,
popcorn in a cauldron for movie night-- Indiana Jones in French (I was on popcorn duty and now I know I will think of these cauldrons and buckets whenever I make microwave popcorn for the rest of my life... and I love that)
monkeeeeyyyyy,

sex ed classes (behold my shining role as a condom demonstrator),
gender and equality classes,
and career day, which was the winner. To adress the distressing lack of imagination encountered upon the "what do you want to be?" question, we introduced the concepts of about 50 professions. Everyone had a card stuck on his/her head with a career like "archeologist" and "tabboo" words beneath that you couldn't say when giving the person hints as to what their card says (ex. "digging"). Real professionals participated as well and gave a panel discussion afterwards. This provided the best most inspiring if-I-did-it-so-can-you, you-are-the-future-of-Senegal speeches. I literally just gave myself goosebumps writing that. That's how awesome it was!
Now, none of these amazing kids can go back to their villages and settle. That won't be good enough, now they know that "zoologists" exist. Look out world, here comes the youth of Kedougou!
See Peace Corps Kedougou's website for more photos, videos, and detailed accounts:




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Thursday, October 8, 2009

The Mayor's Office of Love

One of Peace Corps' finest-- Michele-- recently traded vows with one of Kedougou's finest-- Ousemane. He was her host brother first, but they quickly grew past brotherly love... They are very cute and lovely together, but instead of that, let's talk about the hilarious ceremony.
As "witness," the only title role, I worried a bit about how I could possibly perform maid-of-honor-ish duties HERE. The bachelorette party too... as high-profile people trying to keep a professional image in Kedougou, during Ramadan.... it didn't seem possible to do this right. But we did. Unfortunately I am not at liberty to share these details...
As for the wedding day, I got up as usual with the roosters and proceeded to pace around all day, reminding people when to get there, and even putting on my Nice Dress. I meant serious witness business, people. Several hours later though, and still no word from the blushing bride. I pictured her surrounded by odd cosmetic contraptions, clouds of hair spray, and those mice and birds from Cinderella. I'm coming, poor, frantic friend! She picked up the phone, "[Yawn] Uhh, yeah, come over. And bring a movie!" Uhhh... what?
Roxy and I showed up ready for action and was greeted by a girl in pajamas. "Hey! What's up?"
"Ummm.. isn't this your wedding day, Michele?"
"Yeah, crazy, right?" I asked about preparations and she waved her hand at the door and said Ouseman went to get her shoes. She got her outfit from the tailor yesterday. Want to watch the Office?
I grinned. Now this was a pace I was much more comfortable with! We watched and chatted and I unsuccessfully snuck candy (both she, Ouseman, and Roxy were fasting for Ramadan.) Ousey returned with some steller purple shoes and promptly took a nap on the floor.
Half an hour before the wedding, we convinced her to maybe, you know, dress? Now, 28 minutes to the wedding. Hmm.. We played around with the tiny pile of makeup the three of us compiled and tousled around her hair pretending it did something. She wore her mom's old earings, her brand new purple shoes, I gave her 100 CFA to borrow, and as for the "something blue" I just took a pen and drew a dot on the bottom of her foot. I felt like we were playing pretend wedding.

Especially since I then biked to the ceremony. The other volunteers were there in full form, mostly in ridiculous Senegalese outfits. We waited, true to all things Senegal, for over an hour for the mayor to show up. During the wait, the hidden donkey charette with the "Just Married!" sign and trailing tomato paste and fanta cans-- ran over and ruined the surprise. These sounds of jingling, braying, and people running to catch it became steady background noises to the event.

At the ceremony, the officials seemed a bit uneasy about having a room FULL of toubabs for probably the first time. They made us-- especially me and Michele-- switch seats about ten times. Then they wouldn't start until everyone had a coke or fanta in front of them-- even though about half the room was fasting and wouldn't touch it. They called Michele by her middle name. They spoke in such a rapid Wolof-ish french that we all struggled to follow. We held our breath when Ouseman didn't understand the "monogamy vs. polygamy" option at first. Whenever things were directed at me, I leaned forward and frowned in concentration. "Uhhh... OUI." I think I got everything until the end, when I inadvertanly promised to come back the next month to marry another senegalese guy. Oops!





My greatest failing as a witness was probably that I couldn't stop giggling throughout the entire affair. But everything-- EVERYTHING was so funny! The guys trying to put on a good show for the toubabs, the looks on the other PCVs' faces, the donkey outside and shouts of people catching it, the blue dot on the bottom of Michele's foot... I don't feel too bad, though, because the only other person giggling as much as me was Michele.


Hands down, the best wedding I've ever been to. Felicitations, Madame et Monsieur Kante!



Friday, September 25, 2009

Fatou and Hawa: Revised Plan

(This is in reference to the previous blog entry)

So Melinda Gates does not read my blog. New plan-- let's work together! You can comment on this page an amount to pledge-- or email me if you want to remain anonymous. That way if we can't raise enough, you never actually paid anything, and it just won't happen. If we can successfully bring our forces together, you could give checks to my mother who could transfer them to my account. Sound like a plan? (As far as where to send the checks, I'd rather email the address individually rather than publish it on the web. But don't send anything yet until we know we have enough pledges to actually accomplish our goal!)

Also, I just learned they have a Guinean husband in mind for Hawa, so I'd really like to do this as soon as possible! Thanks so much for your support!



Click here to Pledge

Monday, September 14, 2009

Never Been Missed

Fatou and Hawa are two of my favorite people in the village. Always patient and friendly with me, they really stand out as genuinely nice people who aren’t trying to milk me for anything. They amaze me with their consistently positive attitudes and the respect with which they treat others. They work harder than anyone else I’ve seen: from dawn until bedtime, they pound corn, wash clothes, pull water, clean rooms and dishes, feed and move the animals, help with harvesting, find firewood, cook meals, and are the main caretakers for the children of their households. They are both 12 years old.

Do you remember what you did at 12? If I remember correctly, I wore mismatched socks, went to the movies almost every weekend, and secretly had not yet given up my collection of stuffed animals yet. I probably had more stuffed animals than these girls have articles of clothing (which is probably about 4 each).

My favorite subjects were art, science, and english. I didn’t feel like I took school completely for granted, but I definitely faked sick many a time. Hawa was pulled out of elementary school a few years ago even though her sharpness is evident within the first 5 minutes of talking to her. She had to stay at home to take over household responsibilities from her frail mother. Fatou is lucky to have not yet been pulled out, but without any free time to study and do homework, she’s falling behind and apparently resigned to this.

They are bright beautiful loveable girls just becoming women. It’s refreshing to see how gracefully they take these changes—none of the embarrassment or awkwardness that accompanied them for everyone I know in America. But sometimes I want to grab them and cover them up and keep their growing a secret. With all the times I’ve heard I should really get married since I’m developed, I know they’ll be married off sooner than I’d like. By law they’ve still got a few years, and I doubt this law will be broken at least with Fatou, my sister, while there’s a PCV living in the household.

But then they will be, and their lives will very much most likely match the lives of their mothers and grandmothers before them. One of multiple wives, they will most likely bear many children and do the same work all day every day that they did at 12. And no books or soap operas or shopping sprees will line their clouds, either. Hopefully they’ll have nice husbands who don’t abuse them and who use finances appropriately to ensure everyone can eat enough. Unfortunately, these elements are far from guaranteed.

By the time I was 12, I was fortunate enough to have visited several countries, museums, zoos, and to have tried many varieties of food. Fatou and Hawa have only ever been as far as Kedougou, 1-2 times, and aren’t likely to ever travel beyond, as they are/ will be women. Of course they’ve never seen a museum or anything of the sort, and other than my “pop-kabba” and “espaghett” ventures, have had less than ten dishes in their lives, usually the same three over and over.

I would like to change at least these few things. Another PCV—Kevin—took his two village brothers to Dakar for their first times, and I would like to do this with Fatou and Hawa, the most deserving girls I can imagine.

Their first trip to their country’s capital would show them many more firsts: hotels, showers, toilets, sinks, swimming pools, hamburgers, french fries, ice cream, pastries, seafood (etc. etc. etc! important category for these twiggy malnourished girls!), museums, boat (to Goree Island to see the House of Slaves and the best school for girls in the country—stark opposites!), zoo (I hear the Dakar zoo is depressing, but I think it might be more depressing to have never gone to a zoo?), movies (french cultural institute), live good music, grocery store, big market, beach and view of ocean, views of nice mosques (unlike our stick one), views from tall buildings in Dakar (first stairs, in fact!), other sightseeing (Presidential Palace, etc.), and the first/only time they’d feel like they’re living it up like toubab princesses.

I’d also want to show them successful working women, first-hand. Awa, in particular, is a fantastic role model who could life-alteringly inspire any girl within 10 minutes. I’d give them both photo albums to remember the trip forever. They would find themselves in the new positions of authority in the village and sad as it is, I know people would treat them with more respect afterwards. They would gain an invaluable greater understanding of their country and the world. They would be able to buy gifts for their families, and in Senegal, there is no greater feeling than this.

Here’s the thing. I’m a PCV with no money. Kevin was able to do this because of a private donor. I have a sinking suspicion I have no private-donor-types reading this blog, but I’m going to try anyway. I estimate this three-day trip would cost about $850, everything included. If I had to cut out some hamburgers and gift-buying money, I could go down. I know I’ve been soliciting a lot lately and all you over there in the great Amerik are worried enough about money already. But this is a really important cause to me. Hopefully I’ve been able to express the impact this trip would have on Hawa and Fatou. If anyone out there is interested in funding this, please please contact me. I can provide a budget, photos, thank you letters from the girls, receipts—whatever you’d like!

I promise you would change the lives of two of the sweetest, most hard-working girls I’ll ever know. Please help me make this happen.


Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Ingley Troisieme Tour

I meant for these to go in the opposite order, but the prospect of attempting to make that happen at this point overwhelms me. This is our trip to Ingley, in photos... in reverse...















Tuesday, September 1, 2009

Stick Bridge

Until dry season returns, it's this or a dug-out-tree canoe, every time I want to go to or come back from my village.